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Thomas van der Kallen June 2008: President of EBEL - Reconstruction Update

PuristSPro Interviews Thomas van der Kallen "Reconstruction Update" By Dr. Melvyn Teillol-Foo © June 2008        Thomas van der Kallen, President of EBEL, last spoke with PuristSPro in 2007 to share his thoughts about rebuilding 'The Architects of Time'. Horology history buffs may remember Ebel's past achievements like the perpetual calendar based on the Zenith El Primero in 1984, to the more recent in-house calibers 137, 139, 240 and 288.   ...

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Karl-Friedrich Scheufele June 2008: Co-President of Chopard

Substantial sections of this article were published in iW magazine (June 2008). This unabridged version appears by courtesy of FineLife Media Inc.   INTERVIEW:  KARL-FRIEDRICH SCHEUFELE – CHOPARD DRIVER AND WATCHMAKING MARATHON "RUNNER"   By Dr Melvyn Teillol-Foo and V.L. Kong     © MTF @ PuristSPro.com   Co-President of Chopard, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele has taken on the company's technical products in the Watchmaking Division...

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Jerome Lambert May 2008: CEO of Jaeger-LeCoultre

  PuristSPro Interviews Jerome Lambert by Nicolas "amanico" Fondaneche © May 2008  Q: What is your personal take on Jaeger-LeCoultre? R: I would define Jaeger-LeCoultre as a brand of beautiful horology tradition and especially of horology know-how. Back in 2001 / 2002 we were convinced about that already and proud of our capacities. We just had to turn this know-how and potential into full reality, obviously without forgetting the founding principles of JLC and its creator...

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Magali Metrailler May 2008: from the JLC Design Department

PuristSPro Interviews Magali Metrailler from the Jaeger-LeCoultre Design Department by Nicolas "amanico" Fondaneche © May 2008  How and why did you come to work at JLC ? I started my career as a home designer, an architect.I earned my diploma in Interior Design in 1995 and another Diploma in Architecture in 1996.Then I studied at the European Design Institute in Milano ( Italy ), and I graduated in 1999.I worked for some Architects at Bernard HEUTTE, and the Comina and C...

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Angelo Bonati April 2008: CEO of Officine Panerai

PuristSPro Interviews Angelo Bonati by Anthony Tsai © April 2008      Angelo Bonati joined Panerai as the CEO in 1997 and has lead and transformed Panerai into a huge success of which many other CEOs are probably envious of.  Leading the charge and establishing itself as the leader of the large watch trend, Panerai continues to defy those who believe Panerai watches are just a “fad”.   This is the first time PuristSPro has interviewed Mr. Bonati, and...

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JLC Heritage Department April 2008

PuristSPro Interviews Marc-Andre Strahm and Sebastian Vivas from Jaeger-LeCoultre Heritage Department by Jerome Berder & Nicolas Fondaneche © April 2008 A Manufacture is first and foremost - and beyond the technical aspects - a story of men and women.In that spirit we considered as much worthy of interest to listen to those who contribute for our pleasure and passion to maintaining the magic of timepiece creation. The first chapter of this series of interviews is dedicated t...

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In Conversation with Peter Speake-Marin April 2008

PuristSPro interviews Peter Speake-Marin   By Su JiaXian © April 2008   Peter Speake-Marin began his career at Hackney Technical College in London, before continuing his horological education at WOSTEP. Following that he took up a position as a watchmaker at Somlo Antiques, a premier antique timepiece dealer in London’s Burlington Arcade, where he worked on restoration of vintage watches. In 1996, he returned to Switzerland to work at Renaud et Papi, the renowned high complicat...

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Philippe Léopold-Metzger February 2008: CEO of Piaget

PIAGET – A RIGHTFUL MANUFACTURE – PART 1: GENEVA   Philippe Léopold-Metzger, Piaget CEO: Outside Piaget Manufacture Geneva   Many watch aficionados and experts are not even aware that Piaget has been one of the most important Swiss makers of ébauches or movement components for more than 130 years.  Their ‘silent’ clients included Audemars Piguet, Breguet, Cartier, Ebel, Longines, Omega, Rolex, Ulysse Nardin, Vacheron & Constantin, Vulcain, Wi...

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Dr. Luigi "Gino" Macaluso December 2007: CEO of Girard Perregaux

  Dear enthusiasts, those who follow us for a while may already noticed a small number of interviews with Dr. Luigi "Gino" Macaluso.I´m aware Dr. Macaluso does not need a thorough introduction in this place, therefore i´ll safe you from many words.But it´s only likewise rare to hear his thoughts and points of view, the more so during a casual opportunity to sit down and have a talk about the brands, the watches and, not the least, the man himself. (Dr. Macaluso, President of AIHH, 2...

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McGonigle Brothers December 2007: Independent Irish Watchmakers

In conversation with The McGonigle Brothers     By Su JiaXian © December 2007   The McGonigle brothers in their atelier in Ireland   Both John and Stephen McGonigle began their careers working with many of the big names in haute horlogerie, including Franck Muller and Christophe Claret, where they worked on prototyping as well as production of high complications. Three years ago, the brothers began to create their own wristwatch. That sounds like the typical...

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Philippe Stern December 2007: President of Patek Philippe

  Philippe Stern INTERVIEW:  PHILIPPE STERN – KEEPER OF THE PATEK PHILIPPE SPIRIT Of the 'Premier Grand Cru Classé' of watch brands, readers of International Watch , collectors and aficionados consistently single out Patek Philippe as being "the ne plus ultra of watches." The brand has become synonymous with perfection, exclusivity and the finest craftsmanship. With a watchmaking tradition going back more than 160 years; the family Stern has helmed the company for 75 years...

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Patrik Hoffmann December 2007: US President of Ulysse Nardin

  PuristSPro Interviews Patrik Hoffmann by Dr. Marcus Hanke & Anthony Tsai   © December 2007 Patrik was born and raised in Basel, Switzerland and has been working in the watch business all his life - for about 25 years now. Having a degree in controlling from Switzerland, he worked for Oris as an accountant before he took a sabbatical and studied marketing and management in Michigan USA.  He then worked again for Oris for a couple of years before moving to Mal...

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Maximilian Büsser November 2007: Founder & CEO of MB&F

At the age of only 31, Max made his mark in the world of high horology when he was Managing Director of Harry Winston Timepieces from 1998 to 2005.  And having worked on the Opus series with independent watchmakers while at Harry Winston for these 7 years, Max felt it was time for him to leave Harry Winston and create his own company where he would have full reign on design and concept.  This is how his new company MB&F came to fruition, and Max is here to share his thoughts with us at PuristSPro's Los Angeles MB&F Horological Machine No.2 event....

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Alain Silberstein November 2007: The Architect of Time

Two decades ago a talented gentleman turned the world of fine watches on its head.

 

He created watches with whimsical designs in fun colours; they were high priced mechanical watches no less.

 

That was in a time when most thought the luxury mechanical watch had run a good race and was on its last legs. Back then, independent watchmaking had yet to become fashionable - Philippe Dufour had yet to make the Simplicity - and the young upstart haute horlogerie company of the day was Blancpain, since 1735.

 

That gentleman's name was Alain Silberstein; and here he shares his thoughts with us....

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Stephen McGonigle October 2007: a casual Guinness interview

I've had the pleasure of meeting the McGonigle brothers John and Stephen on two occasions, most recently with Stephen at PuristSPro's 5-Master Watchmaker event in Los Angeles in October.  The brothers hail from Athlone, Ireland and create their exquisite tourbillon in a workshop there, making it a truly Irish product.  They've been affiliated, either together or separately, with Audemars Piguet, Franck Muller, Breguet, Christophe Claret, The British Masters and others, in various capacities, working on high complications.  They still perform consulting work for other firms now, but their primary focus is on their own masterpiece.
...

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Peter Speake-Marin October 2007: Master Watchmaker and AHCI Member

Peter Speake-Marin was born in Essex, England in 1968.  By his own admission, studying horology at London's Hackney Technical College in 1985 was "an accident" a direction he had never new exisited and the result of a kindly careers offficer.  He made further studies in Switzerland and then "after-sales service " for a year; and following that experience, he spent 7 years in England restoring antique and vintage watches....

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Philippe Merk October 2007: CEO of Maurice Lacroix S.A

Maurice Lacroix was founded slightly over 30 years ago, as the watch production arm of Desco (originally Desco von Schulthess & Co), a Swiss trading house. Today Maurice Lacroix has come a long way since its humble beginnings as an entry-level watchmaker. Its ambitions culminated this year with the unveiling of the Memoire 1, a remarkable mechanical timepiece which not only records elapsed time, but remembers it as well. (For more on the Memoire 1, click here , here  and here )

 

Here we speak with Philippe Merk, who has spearheaded the evolution at Maurice Lacroix. Amongst other things, he shares with us his vision for Maurice Lacroix as well as the company's strategy in its move upmarket....

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William Asprey August 2007: Owner of the Graham and Arnold & Son brands

Across the road from the Patek Philippe boutique along London’s New Bond Street sits Asprey, jeweller to the Crown since the time of Queen Victoria. Founded in 1781, the firm built its reputation supplying jewellery and other luxury goods to kings, queens as well as the merely rich. Even the Cabinet Office of the British government lists “silver collections comprising… Asprey silver platter, silver box [and] cutlery” amongst its assets.
 

Since the sale of Asprey to Prince Jefri of Brunei in 1995, Asprey has ceased to be a family business. Its most recent owners are a pair of American private equity firms who acquired the jeweller last year. Under the new owners Asprey has been recast as contemporary and cool - the “ultimate authentic British luxury lifestyle house” according to its website - and counts Victoria and David Beckham amongst its clients....

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Vincent Perriard May 2007: President of Concord Watch Company - An American Brand from Switzerland

Concord Watch Company S.A. was founded nearly 100 years ago in Bienne as a manufacturer of high-quality watches with thin movements, particularly for the American market. After World War I, Concord was known as a jeweler extraordinaire with private-label gem-encrusted platinum watches for Tiffany & Co, Van Cleef & Arpels and Cartier.  President Harry Truman even presented a Concord Ring Clock – first portable eight-day winding travel alarm clock – to heads of state, including Churchill and Stalin at the Potsdam Conference.

Other horological achievements include the world's thinnest analogue watch in 1980 – the Delirium IV (<1mm) and one of the most expensive watches available in 1995 – Saratoga Exor. Since the late 1990s, Concord became perceived as just a glitzy watch brand, albeit with a glamorous profile on Hollywood red carpets and in the Oscar gift basket for Academy Award presenters and winners.

...

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Thomas van der Kallen May 2007: President of Ebel - Rebuilding the Architect

Ebel, the 'Architects of Time,' was for many years not the first brand that sprang to mind when dreaming of a top quality timepiece, but in recent years much has changed.  From a comfortable but undynamic position in the 1980's as a solid producer of distinctive quartz watches to today, Ebel has undergone dramatic changes.  Perhaps Ebel has always been somewhat underestimated and underappreciated by horological cognoscenti; high quality distinctive mechanical watches have long been part of the brand's output.  From its development of a perpetual calendar based on the Zenith El Primero in 1984, to the more recent development of in-house calibers 137, 139, 240 and 288, Ebel is indeed bidding to be seen as a manufactory rightfully proud of its technical accomplishments.  Retaining the distinctive Ebel look but reimagining it in a forward looking and fresh way, Ebel, now under the leadership of CEO Thomas van der Kallen since 2005 and also under a new corporate owner, the Movado group, is shaking lose its former image and staking out new ground.  Mr. van der Kallen kindly consented to share his thoughts about Ebel's future with PuristSPro.com....

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Manuel Emch April 2007: Managing Director of Jaquet Droz

Montres Jaquet Droz was relaunched by the SWATCH group at Basel in 2002.  This exclusive manufacturer's main focus is to preserve the traditional arts and crafts associated with haute horology.  Over the past six years Mr. Manuel Emch has successfully led a dedicated team of watchmakers, artisans, designers, and administrators.  The team's abundant energy and creative vision has allowed Montres Jaquet Droz to enjoy double digit sales growth despite a limited annual production of approximately two thousand timepieces.  Best known for the iconoclastic Grande Seconde model with its grand feu enamel or precious stone dial, Montres Jaquet Droz continues to surprise enthusiasts with their innovation and emotive designs....

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Montres Delaloye April 2007: new watchmaking firm established by the Delaloye brothers

Montres Delaloye, a new watchmaking firm established by watchmaker Nicolas Delaloye and his brother Christophe, is a guardian of the values of traditional watchmaking. Nicolas Delaloye, born in 1970, is still relatively young but has accumulated an impressive resume of experience in the industry, and has taken the daring step of striking out on his own with his own manufactory, as well as an in-house movement, Calibre ND01s. This movement is housed in Montres Delaloye's "Garde Temps" line of men's watches....

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Severin Wunderman. The Man with the Horological Golden Touch.

Severin is known to be a great turnaround artist with a golden touch. He built up the Gucci watch franchise from zero to the best selling brand (at one time, in number of pieces) and was known as the first brand to put diamond settings on stainless steel cases.

Corum has seen strong growth since his takeover of Montres Corum from the founding Banwart family although current tough economic conditions means he is unable to repeat his dramatic rapid expansion he is more accustomed to.

He is one of the boldest personalities in the industry and it is always a pleasure and a good educational experience to meet him on any occassion....

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Andreas Strehler October 2001: one of tomorrow's hottest stars.

With a father who was once a machinist and now a clockmaker, it is no surprise Andreas Strehler is a watchmaker. Not in the generic use of the word, mind you, but in its purest, most literal form - Andreas Strehler makes watches. In his mind a concept is born, and through his skilled hands, the concept manifests into something rarely seen in today's horology, that is, something new and unique.

Andreas is the youngest and possibly most forward thinking member of the AHCI. After watchmaking school in Solothurn and repairing watches at a jewelers, Andreas left for LeLocle to hone his skills as a prototypist with Renaud & Papi. Andreas thrived in this creative and free environment, until 1995 when he left to work and create for himself. ...

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Philippe Stern: President, Patek Philippe 03

When one speaks with watch collectors and aficionados one brand is consistently singled out as being "the Rolls-Royce of watches." Like the esteemed automobile manufacturer, it is a name that has become synonymous with perfection, exclusivity and the finest craftsmanship. The company is Patek Philippe, and its history offers a compelling insight into how this unique, family-held watch company has dominated the Swiss watch industry for over 160 years.

One has to wait until the finacial crisis of the 30s to witness the arrival of the Stern family at Patek Philipe....

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